April 15, 2011

Brushing your dog’s teeth

Filed under: Dog Health & Safety — admin @ 2:56 pm

Brushing your dog’s teeth is an excellent way to promote good oral hygiene and fresh breath. It can also prevent oral infections which can spread through a dog’s bloodstream and minimize tooth loss due to decay. It’s easiest if you introduce tooth brushing when your dog is a puppy but dogs of any age can get used to the procedure if you introduce them using positive methods. The trick is to start slow, make it positive and find the tools which your pet accepts. You don’t want to start out with a big, scary toothbrush.! Finger tip brushes, gauze or even a cut swatch of pantyhose will provide the friction you need to introduce your pet to the procedure. There are a number of pet toothpastes on the market with flavors to make your dog beg for more. Never use human toothpaste as the flouride levels can make your pet ill.

Your personal veterinarian is the best source of information on your pet’s dental care. Virtually all veterinary offices will show you how to introduce your pet to a toothbrush and how to brush their teeth correctly. There is no shortage of information on the web from “do it yourselfer’s” but we advise dog owners to consider veterinary sources ensuring that the information they receive is medically sound.

The video below is an excellent place to start. This video features Doctor Sheldon Rubin, speaking for the American Veterinary Medical Association. He gives easy, step-by-step instructions on how to teach your dog or cat to accept a daily tooth brushing.

http://www.avmatv.org/channel.cfm?s=64&c=417

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March 30, 2011

Teaching puppy to play

Filed under: All things Puppy — admin @ 10:59 am

This wonderful information is provided by Wayne Hunthausen, DMV, Animal Behavior Consultations, Westwood Kansas and was distributed to my vet to disperse to his puppy clients. Virtually all puppy parents are concerned if their puppy is playing “too rough.”

“Puppies can play rough. So, to ensure a lifetime of safe and happy interactions, learn how to play appropriately with your new puppy from the start. Most puppy play consists of chasing, pouncing, barking, growling, snapping and biting. So how can you tell the difference between normal play and possible signs of true aggression in your puppy?” Read the full article below.

Teaching puppy to play

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A Brief Explanation On the Importance of Socialization

Filed under: Puppy Socialization — admin @ 10:34 am

The following article was published by the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) and was accessed on March 30, 2011 from their website at http://www.apdt.com/petowners/resources/socialization.aspx

Socialization is important to the overall well-being of your dog because it will provide him with the ability to develop skills to cope with new experiences in a positive way, therefore reducing your dog’s stress.

What is Socialization?

Socialization is the process of exposing dogs to new environments and situations. It helps them to feel more comfortable when encountering new things, animals, people and experiences. Socialization is especially important during puppyhood with the first critical socialization time as eight-twelve weeks of age.

Socialized pups are typically happier, friendlier, more predictable and able to handle stress better. Under-socialized pups often grow to become fearful, shy, anxious, and sometimes even fearfully-aggressive adult dogs because they lack the skills to cope with new situations.

Socialization should not end with puppyhood but is more of a lifetime journey. Though the foundation for your dog’s behavior is laid during the first few months, responsible pet owners reinforce social skills and continually expose their dog to new social experiences throughout the dog’s entire life.

Ideas for Socializing Your Dog:

There are tons of ways to socialize your dog. You just need to be sure to make time to socialize your pup or adult dog by actively seeking new experiences that will be positive encounters. Here are a few ideas to get you rolling:

Puppy Kindergarten or Obedience Classes: Every dog should learn to be well behaved around other people and dogs. A structured class will give your dog a chance to practice obedience skills while meeting and greeting new dogs and people.
Parks: Visit your local parks. Take plenty of treats and when children ask to pet your dog, ask them if they would like to give your dog a treat too.
Nature trails: These are great for both exercise and meeting new people. You’ll also likely encounter different kinds of animals.
Outdoor events: Don’t be afraid to expose your dog or puppy to youth sporting events, small festivals, or dog events like fundraising walks.
Puppy Parties: Have a puppy party and invite over a few friends each time.
Pet Stores: These can be a great opportunity for seeing lots of new things but use caution about unknown dogs you come across. Not all are friendly to rambunctious puppies.
Downtown: If you live in a city with a nice downtown area, take your dog for a stroll or visit the local Farmers’ Market.

These are just a few ideas for socializing your dog. Always keep your dog under control, carry lots of treats, and keep it positive. Don’t force your dog into anything! Instead, keep it light-hearted, and if your dog appears overly anxious or overwhelmed, keep it short.

Lifelong socialization is the best way for your dog to learn how to respond with less fear and stress to situations he will encounter throughout his life. It will him to be an overall happier, more balanced pet.

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Dog Park Body Language

Filed under: Dog Park info — admin @ 9:34 am

Dog Park Body Language

Article from the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT)

http://www.apdt.com/petowners/park/bodylanguage.aspx

Accessed 2/19/2011

If you decide to visit a dog park, it is important to be able to read the body language of your dog and the other dogs present. The ideal body language is playful, but dogs will exhibit a variety of behaviors as they contact new dogs and spend more time at the park. Overall you are looking for balanced play between dogs – sometimes one is on top and next time he’s on the bottom. Sometimes he’s the chaser, and next he will be the chased.

It’s always wise to leave the park if your pet shows signs of tiredness, stress or fear or if there are dogs present who seem threatening.

Playful actions to watch for:

Back and forth play – dogs change position – role reversals
Bouncy, exaggerated gestures
Wiggly bodies
Open relaxed mouth
Play-bows
Twisted leaps or jumps
Pawing the air

Signs of Anxiety/Stress to Monitor:

Fast wagging low tail
Whining or whimpering
Ears may be back
Hiding behind objects or people

Signs of Fear:

Dog will try to look small
Tail tucked
Hunched over, head down
Tense
May urinate submissively

Red Flags that Require Intervention:

Excessive mounting
Pinning (holding another dog down and standing stiffly over them)
Shadowing another dog (following) incessantly
Bullying: repeatedly bothering another dog that does not want to interact
Fast non-stop running with a group – high arousal situation
Full-speed body slams
Putting head repeatedly onto another dog’s neck or back
Staring with a fixed gaze directly at another dog
Snarling or raised lips
Showing teeth
Hackles up at the shoulders

Signs of Potential Illness – While not necessarily related to behavior, you will want to remove your dog from a park where dogs are showing the following symptoms:

Coughing or gagging
Vomiting
Sneezing
Diarrhea

In theory, dog parks are a wonderful way for dogs to socialize with other friendly dogs. It is important that owners who frequent dog parks know the limitations of their pets and act accordingly to keep playgroups interacting in a safe and responsible manner.

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February 24, 2011

The Whys and Hows of Behavior Modification

Filed under: Behavior Spotlight,Experts speak on Punishment — admin @ 11:21 am

The Whys and Hows of Behavior Modification

The following article was written by Dr. Melissa Bain, DMV, DACVM

University of California School of Veterinary Medicine, Clinical Animal Behavior Program

“My dog is stupid. When I say ‘no’ she looks guilty, but I still come home to destruction in the house.”

“Doc, I read about this tap-method of using shock collars, and they say it is positive reinforcement. Can you explain it to me?”

“My dog is scared of people. I take him every morning to the coffee shop and, even after lots of people pet him, he’s still fearful!”

When you must answer these questions, you will need to know learning theory- the scientific knowledge developed from the learning principles of habituation, classical conditioning and operant conditioning.

Classical Conditioning.

We can countercondition new desirable responses or extinguish existing undesirable responses. New aversive or positive emotional responses are created by pairing the relevant stimulus with an aversive stimulus (loud noise), or a positive appetitive stimulus (food). Undesirable classically conditioned responses are extinguished by presenting the conditioned stimulus repeatedly without the unconditioned stimulus.

Operant Conditioning.

You can establish new responses by reinforcing (e.g., food) desirable behaviors, or extinguish undesirable behaviors (such as attention-seeking behavior) by allowing no more reinforcement.

Reinforcement vs. Punishment

Reinforcement INCREASES the chance that a behavior reoccurs in the future.

Punishment DECREASES the chance that a behavior reoccurs in the future.

“Positive” and “negative” have to do with “adding” or “removing” something.

Positive reinforcement: Increasing the probability of a behavior reoccurring by ADDING SOMETHING PLEASURABLE. Example: food treats to reward a “sit” command.
Negative reinforcement: Increasing the probability of a behavior reoccurring by REMOVING SOMETHING AVERSIVE. Example: removal of pressure of a bit in horse’s mouth when horse stops.
Positive punishment: Decreases the probability of a behavior reoccurring by ADDING SOMETHING AVERSIVE. Examples: yelling, hitting, water gun, can of pennies.
Negative punishment: Decreases the probability of a behavior reoccurring by REMOVING SOMETHING PLEASURABLE. Examples: social punishment, time-outs, leaving dog park.

Reinforcement

It is MUCH easier to reward an animal for a behavior that has he has performed correctly. For example, if you are teaching a dog to “sit,” it is more effective, and makes more sense, to give a reward when the animal “sits” rather than punishing the dog when it doesn’t “sit.” Different animals work for different reinforcers. The key is finding the motivation for the animal.

Clicker training is a way to incorporate positive reinforcement methods into your repertoire, by being able to use a bridging stimulus. However, it is not a magical tool and dogs can easily be trained without using clickers.

Punishment

Rules of punishment (that most people do not adequately follow):

Provide opportunities for the animal to perform correct behavior!
Reduce the motivation for the behavior
Stage misbehavior if possible (i.e., set up the steak on top of the counter)
The punishment should be intense enough to stop behavior, but not too severe to cause anxiety/fear
Needs to be short delay between behavior and punishment, 1-3 seconds
Don’t gradually increase punishment, as the animal can habituate to it
The punishment should be dependent on the behavior, not the punisher
The behavior needs to be punished every time

Types of Punishment

Interactive or direct punishment

Examples include: hitting, slapping, grabbing by scruff of neck, yelling, and correction with choke chain. Interactive punishment can produce an aversion to the person delivering the punishment and can make a fear-motivated problem worse. In many cases, it can also lead to an escalation of aggression.

Remote punishment

Examples are use of: shock collars, invisible fences, water sprayers, air horns, and electronic sirens. Remote punishment is delivered so the person delivering the punishment is not associated with the punishment. It can be used with common misbehaviors that are directed to only one or two locations, and avoids the problem of producing aversion to the person who is responsible for delivering punishment, but should still not be used on fearful or aggressive animals.

Social punishment

This involves temporarily abandoning or socially isolating the animal. Companion animals, especially dogs, do not like people to abandon them or be forced to leave a fun place. Thus one can punish dogs by terminating pleasant social situations. Examples: walking away, leaving the house, going home from the park when misbehavior occurs.

Habituation

This is used to help eliminate fears or anxieties by presentation of a stimulus without aversive consequences. It may be accomplished by presenting the stimulus repeatedly or continuously at full strength, called flooding, or by presenting stimuli in gradually increasing steps, called desensitization.

Flooding

This unintentionally occurs frequently in animals in nature and in our homes, and happens when animals are habituated to situations causing anxiety and fear, where the full-strength stimulus is presented repeatedly, and does not produce aversive consequences. Flooding can be a risky procedure. If not done properly, it can worsen the fear response. We RARELY recommend this procedure for behavior modification.

Systematic desensitization

In adult animals, this technique is useful in treating the aversive emotional reaction associated with innate and acquired anxieties or fears. The procedure is commonly used in treating separation anxiety and fears of loud noises. The technique involves habituation of an innate fear or extinction of classically conditioned responses.

In adult animals, the full stimulus often evokes a full-blown aversive emotional reaction (with visceral consequences) which makes it almost impossible to stop because the stimulus is, in fact, followed by aversive consequences. Desensitization involves presentation of a gradient of increasing intensity of the stimulus. The stimulus eventually loses its ability to produce an adverse emotional reaction. The gradient is distance or intensity. To accomplish desensitization it is necessary to identify the emotion-evoking stimulus (stimuli), determine the starting intensity which evokes no response or a weak response, and conduct trials at increasing steps of intensity. Desensitization may also be used to reduce excitatory reactions such as exuberant barking to door bell ringing.

Counterconditioning

This is used to supplement desensitization to replace an aversive emotional response (fear or anxiety) with a pleasant emotional response that is incompatible with the aversive state. Counterconditioning resolves problems better than just a neutral reaction from desensitization alone.

For treating fears (aversive emotional reactions), pair a very mild form of the fear-evoking stimulus with food and/or affection to condition a positive emotional response that is incompatible with the internal aversive reaction. The positive internal state overcomes the aversive internal state if the aversive state is only mildly aroused. As the animal becomes progressively desensitized to the low-level stimulus, the counterconditioning is carried out with the stimulus at progressively higher levels.

This article may also be accessed directly from it’s source, The California Veterinary Medical Association (CVMA) at this address http://www.cvma.net/doc.asp?id=3245

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February 23, 2011

The Trouble with Punishment

Filed under: Experts speak on Punishment — admin @ 4:56 pm

Dog training: The trouble with punishment

The following is an excerpt written by Dr. Ian Dunbar, veterinarian and animal behaviorist, which was originally published in After you Get Your Puppy.

Insufficient socialization and frequent and extreme punishment are the two major reasons why dogs become wary of people. Wary dogs stay away from people. Problems happen when people approach and try to handle, or pet, the dog.

Few people intend to make things unpleasant for their puppydog, with one notable exception: when punishing him. By definition, punishment is meant to be unpleasant. However, it is extremely disturbing that this unpleasantness is overly frequent and overly extreme. Sadly, many outdated trainers, and hence many owners who have read outdated training books, tend to focus on punishing untrained dogs for getting it wrong, for breaking rules they never knew existed. It is much quicker to teach your puppy the rules of the house-to show him what you want him to do and to reward him for doing it. Thus, your puppy learns to want to do what you want him to do. Frequent or extreme punishment is a major reason why many dogs dislike being handled, and why they dislike the handler.

Punishment means your training isn’t working

Frequent punishment is an indication that your training philosophy is flawed. The dog still frequently misbehaves and, therefore, is frequently punished. Training is simply not working. Time to change to Plan B. Rather than punishing your puppy for mistakes he has made in the past, you should concentrate on teaching your puppy how he should act in the future. Remember, it is much more efficient and effective to reward your puppy for doing it your way-the one way you consider to be right-rather than trying to punish him for the many ways he could do it wrong.

Punishment sabotages the pet-owner relationship

Repeated punishment is the painful tip of a wedge that progressively divides and destroys the pet-owner relationship. Initially, you will lose off-leash control, and your dog will be slow to approach since he no longer wants to come close. Eventually he will become wary and apprehensive when approached and handled. The whole point of living with a dog is to enjoy his company. Surely you don’t want to live with a dog that doesn’t want your companionship. If you find yourself frequently reprimanding and punishing your puppy, seek help from a trainer.

Extreme punishment is an extreme indication that training isn’t working. The dog still misbehaves and the severity of punishment is increased with the assumption that it will be more effective. If punishment is effective, the dog would no longer misbehave. If the dog continues to misbehave following an extreme punishment, it would be wise to question the validity of the punishment-training program rather than automatically upping the level of pain.

Extreme punishment is quite unnecessary and absolutely counterproductive. It creates more problems than it resolves. Even when extreme punishment eliminates an unwanted behavior, it trashes the dog-human relationship. For example, your puppy may not jump up anymore following a severe punishment, but now he no longer likes you, nor wants to come close to you because you were extremely nasty to him the last time he jumped up to say hello. You have won the battle but lost the war. Your dog doesn’t jump up, but you don’t have a best friend anymore. Sadly, training has become adversarial and unpleasant. Why would a person treat their best friend like their worst enemy?

If you ever feel the need to resort to severe punishment, immediately seek help from a trainer who uses more efficient and effective, dog-friendly, lure/reward training methods. The most successful obedience competition dogs, agility dogs, search-and-rescue dogs, bomb-detection dogs, seeing-eye dogs, hearing-ear dogs, assistance dogs, and protection dogs are all trained using reward-based motivational methods, with few-if any-reprimands. Isn’t it about time that we trained pet dogs the same way?

When you effectively use reward-training techniques, punishment is seldom necessary. However, a less-experienced trainer may feel the need to reprimand or punish more frequently in order to compensate for novice training skills. Even so, when punishing a dog there is no need to approach, loom over, glower, grab, shake, shout, scream, scare, or hurt him.

What to do instead

For a routine training mishap, an instructive reprimand is more than sufficient, such as, “Outside!” “Chewtoy!” “Sit!” “Steady!” or “Hustle!” The slightly raised voice and change in tone indicates urgency, and in each case, the one-word instruction lets your puppy know what he should be doing to get back on track again.

Even for more serious transgressions, harsh punishment is unnecessary. In fact, when you use fun and games, reward-based training methods, banishment is the all-time most effective punishment-a short timeout with no more training game, no more rewards, and no more you. Calmly and quietly instruct your dog to leave the room: “Rover, Exit!” Banishment need only last for a few seconds, or a couple of minutes at the most. Then always insist that the dog apologize and make up by dutifully coming, sitting, and lying down. When banishment (stopping training) becomes your best punishment, you have achieved the Holy Grail of Dog Training.

Banishment is especially effective if you cheerfully shake the dog’s treat jar during the timeout period. When one of my dogs is in a timeout penalty, I make a point of merrily training my other dog and especially giving out lots of “bad-dog treats.” “Good dog, Oso! Why don’t you have one of bad-dog Phoenie’s treats?” It works well in our household. On one occasion, I became so irritated that Phoenix was ignoring me that during her time out from the living room I pretended to eat the treats myself. “Mmmmm! Yummy-yummy Phoenie’s treats!” When I let her back in the living room, she lay down and wouldn’t take her eyes off of me for half an hour.

Giving the banishment order in a soft, sweet voice and pointing demonstratively to the door will help control your upset and emotions. On the first couple of occasions, you may have to shoo your puppy through the door but he will soon learn to leave promptly following your command. Moreover, after just a few banishments, your soft and sweet “Exit!” command will become a conditioned punishment, having an immediate and dramatic effect on your pup’s behavior. At this stage in training, the “Exit!” command becomes an extremely effective warning. Observe your puppy’s reaction when you sweetly inquire, “Rover, would you like to pay attention and take heed, or would you prefer to exit?” Most likely, your pup will wise up immediately. If so, ask him to lie down quietly and let him stay beside you. If not, say, “Exit!” in your best sweet and soft voice and demonstratively point to the door.

When banished, most dogs leave reluctantly and remain right outside the door looking in. However, when working with young puppies without much training it is better for you to leave promptly when the puppy misbehaves. In that case, play/train in your pup’s long-term confinement area so that during his time-out your pup does not have the opportunity to get into further mischief. A one- or two-minute timeout is sufficient. Then return to the puppy’s area and ask him to make up and show some respect by coming, sitting, and lying down on request.

Excerpted from After You Get Your Puppy, by Dr. Ian Dunbar.

Ian Dunbar is a veterinarian and animal behaviorist, founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, and the author and star of numerous books and videos on dog behavior and training. He lives in Berkeley, California with his wife, trainer Kelly Dunbar, and their three dogs. The Dunbars are contributing editors to DogTime.

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Considerations for Shock and “Training” Collars

Filed under: Experts speak on Punishment — admin @ 4:37 pm

The Journal of Veterinary Behavior, Clinical Applications and Research has published the following article. The article was written by Dr. Karen Overall, Veterinary Behaviorist and published in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior (2007) 2, 103-107. What follows is specific portions of the article, the full article may be accessed by using the link provided below.

“As a specialist in veterinary behavioral medicine and a researcher who focuses on the development and treatment of anxieties in dogs, behavioral genetics, and performance outcomes, I am asked to evaluate and comment on a wide population of dogs. Although most of the dogs on whom I now focus are selected because of research interests (the genetics of aggression, anxiety, and noise reactivity), many of these dogs are actually patients who come to me because of problematic behaviors. Additionally, I continue to see a subset of dogs who are not the focus of any behavioral investigation but who are troubled dogs with distressed humans. This means that one population for whom I evaluate tools are patients…problematic and distressed dogs.

Absolutely, without exception, I oppose, will not recommend, and generally spend large amounts of time telling people why I oppose the use of shock collars, prong collars, choke collars and any other type of device that is rooted in an adversarial, confrontational interaction with the dog. Without exception, such devices will make my anxious patients worse and allow the anger level of my clients to reach levels that are not helpful and may be dangerous. The link between dog abuse and spousal/child abuse is now well established (Ascione and Arkow, 1999; Lockwood Ascione, 1998). I educate people about this and about breaking the cycle.

Simply put, when these adversarial methods are used on my patients, they become more anxious, more pathologic, and potentially more aggressive and dangerous depending on their problem. I am currently dealing with a poodle who is biting the owner more -not less- often than before because the owner has begun to use a prong collar in her obedience training class.

The reason these devices make my patients worse are the same reasons that I oppose their use. They do not work the way people think they do, and there are better tools and understandings for accomplishing what people who use these seek to accomplish.”

Read the full article here, JOVB Shock and training collars

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AVSAB’s Position on Punishment

Filed under: Experts speak on Punishment — admin @ 3:37 pm

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has released their position statement on the use of Punishment to train dogs.

The AVSAB’s position on punishment (e.g. choke chains, pinch collars, and electronic collars) should not be used as a first-line or early-use treatment for behavior problems. This is due to the potential adverse effects which include but are not limited to: inhibition of learning, increased fear-related and aggressive behaviors, and injury to animals and people interacting with animals.

AVSAB recommends that training should focus on reinforcing desired behaviors, removing the reinforcer for inappropriate behaviors, and addressing the emotional state and environmental conditions driving the undersirable behavior. This approach promotes a better understanding of the pet’s behavior and better awareness of how humans may have inadvertently contributed to the development of undersirable behavior. Punishment should only be used when the above approach has failed despite an adequate effort as part of a larger training or behavior modification program that incorporates positive reinforcement of appropriate behaviors and works to change the underlying cause of the problem behavior.

Read complete article including guidelines for the use of punishment and their adverse effects AVSAB Punishment Statement

This article may also be accessed directly from The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviors website at www.AVSABonline.org

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What’s Wrong With This Picture?

Filed under: Experts speak on Punishment — admin @ 3:06 pm

The following paper was written by Susan G. Friedman, Ph.D. Department of Psychology Utah State university, Logan, UT. Friedman is a psychology professor at Utah State university, specializing in applied behavior analysis (ABA), the technology of behavior change.

What’s Wrong With This Picture?

Of the many important facets expressed in Hippocrates’ simple ideal, surely one of the most important is its universality. Indeed, this ethical principle is an applicable to caregivers as it is to physicians; to behvaior problems as to diseases; and to animals as to people. However, as straightforward as the dichotomy between helping and harming may first appear, it can be a complicated subject regarding the procedures used to change an animal’s behavior.

Unfortunately, it’s not unheard of for dogs to be shocked, hung from leashes, and deprived of food and social interaction in response to problem behaviors. Thankfully, most people have no problem judging these strategies as inappropriate to the point of being physically abusive. However, consider the following suggestions for solving common behavior problems with dogs:

When a dog snarls at skateboards, restrain it while boys skate around the dog.
When a dog avoids walking on linoleum, carry it to the center of the kitchen and walk away.
When a dog struggles to escape comb held close to its face, pin it down while combing its muzzle.
When a dog barks incessantly, spray it with water or bang pan with spoon.
When a dog teats non-food items, push its head back until it yelps.

It may be harder to judge the inappropriateness of these strategies because they have been suggested to caregivers so often for so long. The people who continue to advocate them do so on the grounds that these strategies can be effective for reducing problem behaviors. They say with a shrug, “As long as it works!” Inarguably, these approaches do work “some of time.” (Indeed, the fact that these strategies are only effective some of the time explains the persistent use of them, in the same way intermittent jackpots account for persistent gambling.) However, underlyign the issue of effectiveness is a much larger problem; the lack of appropriate criteria on which to judge, and select, the procedures we use to reduce problem behaviors. Effectiveness is one criterion, but effectiveness alone is not enough.

Intrusiveness and Social Acceptability

The lack of a standard to help us select behavior reduction procedures is a crucial matter. Without such a standard, we are likely to intervene on the basis of effectiveness alone, without due consideration of humaneness. To be maximally humane, our interventions should be as unintrusive for the learner as possible and still be effective. Carter and Wheeler (1) defined intrusiveness according to two important criteria: 1.) the level of social acceptability of an intervention, and 2.) the degree to which the learner maintaines control while the intervention is in effect.

Read full article here APDT What’s Wrong with this Picture – Dogs

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Puppy Socialization and Bite Inhibition

Filed under: Puppy Socialization — admin @ 2:30 pm

Puppy Socialization and Bite Inhibition

Bringing Up Baby

Written by Dr. Ian Dunbar and Christine Adkins

Most puppies seem to love everybody and everything. How do we best ensure that our dogs continue to get along well with the world as they grow up? Many owners of new puppies will have heard about something called socialization. This is the second most important item on any puppy’s educational curriculum, whereas the most important goal is bite inhibition. So what do these terms mean, is there any need to hurry, and what if they don’t happen?

Socialization101 The degree of a dog’s socialization-whether he becomes a “well-socialized” or “poorly socialized” member of the community-depends on the type of social environment he experiences while young. All young dogs (like young people) will learn about their social world through interacting with it. Those who are exposed to a wide variety of positive, rewarding experiences will form a different view of the world than those who are isolated, mistreated or bullied.

Your aim, as owner, should be to help your dog grow to be both people- and dog friendly. If your young pup is exposed to a large number of dogs, humans and other animals under a variety of different but essentially non-traumatic circumstances, your puppy will grow up to be an adult dog who enjoys the company and actions of other dogs and people. Occasional outside individuals may be obnoxious or frightening, but on average, the world is a good place and there is no need for defensiveness or fear.

On the other hand, if a pup is kept in isolation, he has no opportunity to learn about the outside world and as an adult, other dogs and people will seem strange and threatening. The dog will be ill-equipped to respond in a calm, non-aggressive manner. And an adult dog who is startled, fearful or threatened is an entirely different matter from a scared little puppy.

A young dog must also learn how to behave appropriately. This is his best defense against being mistreated or bullied by other (evidently poorly socialized) dogs later in life. If a puppy has few partners with which to practice social behaviour, he will not necessarily learn the full repertoire of appropriate doggie behaviours, and will not learn to be calm and confident in a wide variety of situations. A dog that flees in fear upon encountering other dogs is likely to be chased! As time goes on, the fear is merely reinforced by each encounter.

How do dogs learn this naturally?
Almost all canids (members of the dog family) are highly social animals with complex and variable systems of interaction. Unlike birds, which will figure out how to mate and fly and hold territories even if separated from their parents soon after hatching, dogs need time and adequate opportunity to develop their social skills during the first four or five months of puppyhood. Young dogs learn what is acceptable and what is not from their mothers and siblings, and later, from other members of their community. Generally, the learning of social skills and how to read the body language of others is through trial- and-error- most importantly through play while young.

As they develop, they will test their social boundaries with other, strange dogs, to find out just how much they are able to get away with. Young puppies can get away with a fair bit. However a five-month-old pup who is a bit too cheeky with a dominant adult male in the park (attempting a mounting, for example) will learn in no short order that he is out of line.

Rarely are there any injuries (though the pup might shriek as if the sky is falling in on him), and owners are best to let this natural process unfold, to treat it as a “that’s what you get!” rather than a calamity. The pup has just learned something important about how to interact socially as an adult with other dogs. If his early socialization was largely positive, this kind of event will be assimilated as a lesson rather than a trauma. He will probably keep his distance from the gruff one for a while, and will then learn that if he does so, nothing bad happens.

Learning to interact with humans
A puppy’s best education regarding how to behave with other dogs involves other dogs, especially other puppies whose jaws are not strongly developed, or later on, well socialized adult dogs with good bite inhibition. Socialization with other dogs, however, is only one part of the equation. Much more important to a dog’s getting along in the world is that he learn how to interact well with humans. He must learn not to be fearful of people who happen to look, act or smell different. If you are able, expose him to people in hats and sunglasses and different types of uniforms, people with different skin colours and styles of facial hair, people doing tai chi in the park, even people in scuba gear if you can arrange it- and make it jolly! Especially make an effort to introduce your young puppy to men and children. Keep the treats and positive reinforcement flowing whenever he manages to be calm and friendly in these novel situations.

Getting along with other animals
A dog is not pre-programmed to know what types of creatures are potential social group members. (This is, perhaps, why they are one of the few non-human animals we can bring into our homes and enjoy as family members.) You can teach him to be quite cosmopolitan if you put your mind to it. The best time-and for some, the only time-to teach a dog to be friendly to cats or rabbits is during puppyhood. After about three months of age, the socialization window begins to close. And don’t stop with just household pets; you never know when you might be hiking along and a horse and rider show up-and if your adult dog has never been exposed to them, you won’t necessarily like how he reacts. Seek out situations early on where your young pup can get used to all kinds of animals and feel calm, relaxed and relatively disinterested around them.

Start right away
Puppyhood is without question the most important time to teach your dog as much as possible about the outside world and about how he can most successfully interact with it. Most puppies are removed from their natural learning environment- their mother and siblings-at about eight weeks of age. After you bring an eight-week-old pup home, it is up to you to continue his social education. This is most effectively done before 12 weeks of age. There is no time to waste.

Read the full article here: Puppy Socialization and Bite Inhibition including the biography of Dr. Ian Dunbar

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