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August 1, 2010

Why you shouldn’t let your dog ride in the front seat

Filed under: Miscellaneous — admin @ 6:17 am

Why you shouldn't let your dog ride in the front seat

Why you shouldn't let your dog ride in the front seat

Submitted by a client yesterday.  Both she and her dog were EXTREMELY LUCKY!

Last Sunday, on my way back home to Raleigh, the sky suddenly started looking pretty ominous.  I tried to beat the storm. No such luck.  As I rounded the highway on-ramp, it started torrentially raining.  The next thing I knew, a large tree limb flew straight through the passenger side of my windshield, hitting the passenger seat, and breaking off. With my wipers no longer working, and the rain so intense they wouldn’t have helped anyway, I pulled over as quickly as I could, and checked on Molly, my one year old pup, who was sitting in the backseat.  She was calm as a cucumber, just looking at me lovingly.  We waited out the storm, with incredible thunder, lighting, and blinding rain, for about 15 minutes, while water poured in my car through the enormous hole in the windshield.  Molly graciously gave up her towel for me to try to protect the dash from the onslaught of rain.  When the rain had passed, I got out, pulled the 4 foot long tree limb out of my windshield …. veeerry carefully, and drove on to my brother’s.  We dodged a half dozen fallen trees and large limbs scattered over the roads.  There was glass everywhere in the car, but no one was hurt, and Molly never worried.  She was safely in the backseat.  Had she been riding in the front seat, as she sometimes tries to do, she would have been killed or badly injured.  I’m so glad that I’m consistent and make her settle down in the back, where she is much safer!

The windshield repair guys left the part of the tree that broke off in my car.  I think I’ll make sure it’s glass free and then see if Molly wants to play fetch.  :)

Comments (1)

Car Safety & Etiquette; Making car rides enjoyable and safe

Filed under: Miscellaneous — admin @ 5:52 am

joy-of-car-ridesMost dogs love car rides and who can blame them!  Little in life compares to the feeling of the sun in their face and the wind whipping through their fur.  Car rides are very stimulating for a dog and even a short ride to the ATM can uplift their spirits and give them a much needed break from their daily routine.

Safety and behavioral challenges (barking, jumping around, etc.) are primary concerns but need not interfere with Fido’s fun outing.  Following a few, simple steps will keep you and Fido safe in the car.

Many dogs prefer to hang their head out the window to catch scents as they blow by.  If you’re traveling at a high rate of speed, you may want to roll up the windows.  Intense wind gusts can be damaging for the eyes and debris kicked up from the road can cause numerous injuries.  If you leave the windows cracked, your pet can still benefit from all the delightful new smells!

Riding Shotgun

Dogs naturally want to be with their people and if allowed, will choose the front seat for themselves.  However, this is one circumstance in which it’s best to say, “No” to Fido and put him in the backseat.

Airbags deploy within 40 milliseconds at an average speed of 200 MPH.  No matter how big Fido may be, he probably isn’t going to survive a hit of this magnitude.  For his safety, please place him in the backseat, secured with a seat belt.

Canine Auto Supplies

Harness type seat belts keep Fido safe and prevent him from moving around in the car.  Numerous styles are available ensuring comfort and rugged good looks.

If you have a small dog and are concerned that he won’t be able to see out the window, seat belt secured, booster seats are available in varying heights ensuring that all dogs can have the coveted window view!

Canine Heatstroke

Heatstroke occurs when a dog severely overheats. Dogs don’t have sweat glands; they can dispel heat only through panting and through the pads of their feet.  Make sure your pet has plenty of water when he’s in the car.

Leaving pets in parked cars can have tragic consequences, even if the windows are partially opened.  On a warm day, the temperature inside a car is 30-40 degrees hotter than the air temperature outside and can escalate to 120 degrees in minutes.  If your dog’s temperature gets above 104 degrees, the results could be fatal.  Dogs do love car rides but if your trip requires that Fido be left alone in the car, it’s best to leave him home.

Don't let Fido bark at passers by.  Change how he feels about them instead!

Don't let Fido bark at people or dogs passing by. Change how he feels about them instead!

Behavioral Challenges

Securing your dog with a seat belt will reduce excitement behaviors such as barking, leaping around and baying out the window.  If your dog is barky or reactive to stimuli as you drive by, give these techniques a try:

  • Don’t yell at your dog for barking…he’ll think you’re joining in and will become more vocal.  Wait for him to stop barking and immediately praise and treat.  Repeat several times in succession.  Reward Fido regularly when he is quiet in the car to reinforce this behavior.  Use a calm voice to prevent Fido from becoming excited again.

  • Have someone get in the backseat with Fido while you drive.  The moment Fido sees a person, or other stimuli which usually set him off, have your passenger feed food treats to  Fido while the stimulus is going by.  This desensitizes him to the stimulus (the scary thing) and changes how he feels how about it. Eventually, Fido will come  to associate these stimuli as positive because something good happens to him in their presence.
  • If Fido is too stressed to eat the treat, you may be too close to the stimulus.  Increase the distance between Fido and the stimulus and try again.  If Fido is extremely reactive or showing signs of stress, he may need advanced techniques.  Call a professional!

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Pet Food Recall- P&G expands recall list

Filed under: Miscellaneous — admin @ 5:20 am

P&G is expanding their recent recall, which is due to possible salmonella contamination. P&G will have people available to answer questions 9:00am to 4:00pm on Saturday and Sunday. The number is 877-340-8823.

There’s a VERY LONG list of foods being recalled in addition to the list below. You’ll find that list here:
http://www.iams.com/iams/en_US/data_root/html/recall_message.html

Here’s the official recall notice from P&G:

The Procter & Gamble Company (P&G) (NYSE:PG) is voluntarily expanding its recall to include veterinary and some specialized dry pet food as a precautionary measure because it has the potential to be contaminated with salmonella. No salmonella-related illnesses have been reported.

Iams Veterinary Dry Formulas
All dry sizes and varieties
Best By Dates: 01Jul10 ˆ 01Dec11
All UPC Codes

Eukanuba Naturally Wild
All dry sizes and varieties
Best By Dates: 01Jul10 ˆ 01Dec11
All UPC Codes

Eukanuba Pure
All dry sizes and varieties
Best By Dates: 01Jul10 ˆ 01Dec11
All UPC Codes

Eukanuba Custom Care Sensitive Skin
All dry sizes
Best by Dates: 01Jul10 ˆ 01Dec11
All UPC Codes

The affected products are sold in veterinary clinics and specialty pet retailers throughout the United States and Canada. No canned food, biscuits/treats or supplements are affected by this announcement. A full listing of UPC codes can be found at www.iams.com.

These products are made in a single, specialized facility. In cooperation with FDA, P&G determined that some products made at this facility have the potential for salmonella contamination. As a precautionary measure, P&G is recalling all products made at this facility.

Consumers who have purchased the specific dry pet foods listed should discard them. People handling dry pet food can become infected with Salmonella, especially if they have not thoroughly washed their hands after having contact with surfaces exposed to this product. Healthy people infected with Salmonella should monitor themselves for some or all of the following symptoms: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, abdominal cramping and fever. Rarely, Salmonella can result in more serious ailments including arterial infections, endocarditis, arthritis, muscle pain, eye irritation and urinary tract symptoms. Consumers exhibiting these signs after having contact with this product should contact their healthcare providers.

Pets with Salmonella infections may have decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. If left untreated, pets may be lethargic and have diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Infected but otherwise healthy pets can be carriers and infect other animals or humans. If your pet has consumed the recalled product and has these symptoms, please contact your veterinarian.

For further information or a product replacement or refund call P&G toll-free at 877-340-8823 (Monday ˆ Friday, 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM EST).

Media Contact: Jason Taylor 513-622-3205

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July 27, 2010

Keeping Your Dog Polite at the Dog Park

Filed under: Etiquette at the dog park — admin @ 5:14 am

Keeping Your Dog Polite at the Dog Park

Dog owners love to take their pets to the dog park to romp and interact with their canine buddies. But, just like with people parks, dog parks are happier places for all whenever visitors follow basic rules of etiquette.

In today’s hectic, business-oriented society where people spend long periods of time away from home, often dogs get neglected and left to fend for themselves in their owners’ fenced-in backyards or inside the house or apartment. Not only is it bad for a dog’s personality and emotional health to be cooped up alone for very long periods of time, it can also have a negative impact on their physical health if they don’t get enough exercise. Not to mention the fact that dogs can easily become destructive if they are left alone so long that they become bored and need something to do.

The solution to all of these problems is to get your dog out of the house for some exercise and interaction with other people and animals, and there’s no better place to do this than at a dog park. Taking your dog for a walk every day does afford sunshine, fresh air, and exercise, but a dog park also offers socialization and more intensive physical exercise with other dogs. Taking your dog to a dog park also gives you the opportunity to meet people who share your interest in dogs, to swap stories, compare pet ownership strategies, or discover other common interests. The dog park can be a wonderful experience for both your dog and you, as long as you follow a few simple and straightforward rules.

Leave the park the way you found it. This is the number one rule of every dog park—clean up after yourself and your dog, or you risk not being allowed to come back. Clean up after your dog religiously while you are inside and outside of the park boundaries. Not only is it rude to let your dog leave little piles of waste around the park, it is also unsanitary to risk the breeding of bacteria in the ground where other dogs and owners are walking and playing. Be sure to always take plastic bags, paper towels, a poop scooper, or whatever other tools you need to be sure your dog leaves the park as he found it.

Keep an eye on your dog. While it isn’t necessary for you to watch your dog closely every minute that you’re at the park, it is expected for you to stay in the park the entire time you’re there. Leaving your dog alone in the park not only can make other owners feel uneasy, it can also result in your dog being harmed by another dog or taken out of the park without your knowledge. Even though dog parks are enclosed by fences, you should never consider them safe places for you to just drop your dog off.

Create and maintain a “park culture.” In the best dog parks, owners get to know one another and create a community where they can rely on each other to keep the peace and maintain a sense of camaraderie and social interaction for both dogs and humans. If a thriving dog park culture exists, regular visitors can work together to monitor the behavior of animals and people, educate visitors new to the park, and help keep problems to a minimum. Be sure you have all the tools and implements you need when you come to the park—towels, treats, leash, and anything you may need. Continually having to borrow from other park visitors leaves a bad impression.

Be sure your dog is a good fit. Not every dog is a good candidate for going to a dog park. If your dog has a serious behavior problem or is uncomfortable around other dogs or people then you may want to avoid taking him to the park unless you invest in obedience classes or other training strategies. Dogs with issues such as these should be socialized more carefully and intentionally than in the unstructured environment of a dog park. To have a good experience and be fair to others visiting the park, your dog should be social and reasonably confident, not aggressive, and obedient to at least basic commands. If your dog will not come when called, you may be inviting problems by taking him to a place where it may be difficult to get control if necessary. Dogs who bark continuously or aggressively are not welcome at dog parks, both for the relaxation of other park visitors as well as people who live nearby.

Do not take your dog to the park if he is sick. Communicable diseases or parasites are problematic because they can infect other animals, but chronic painful conditions such as arthritis or hip dysplasia can make a dog aggressive or reactive to other dogs if they are hurt or frightened.

Make a reconnaissance trip beforehand. Before you take your dog to the park for the first time, stop by alone for a few minutes to check out the surroundings and get a feel for the culture of the park. When you take your dog for the first time, try to go at a non-peak usage time so both of you can get acquainted with the area without being stressed out and distracted by other animals and people.

Appropriate human behavior is also important. Most parks don’t have rules against bringing in toys, but remember that you may cause a fight between animals or owners if you bring in any toy that flies, such as a Frisbee. Keep in mind that dogs are like children, and fighting over a toy can only cause problems or even injuries. Don’t bring small children or young puppies to the dog park, because you have no idea what to expect from the other dogs that will be there. If someone comes to you with a complaint about your dog, don’t rush to judgment immediately and don’t be instantly defensive. Listen to the complaint, apologize if you believe your dog has been offensive, and be willing to leave if necessary. If you have a problem with someone else’s dog, be polite and respectful when approaching the owner to discuss the problem. Never discipline another person’s animal. If you must break up a fight between dogs, be careful and end use whatever means necessary, but never try to punish another dog. If another dog’s behavior is unacceptable to you, the best thing to do is remove your own dog from the park rather than trying to correct the problem being caused by another dog.

Dog parks can be a godsend to people who need a place to give their dog some freedom while still being able to control them. They can be a perfect spot for giving your dog exercise and socialization, or they can be a nightmare where you and your dog might be traumatized or hurt. The outcome of your trip to the dog park depends primarily on you. If you understand the etiquette rules required at the dog park and follow them, then the dog park will be the best place for you to take your best friend.

Article written and submitted by Linda O.  Raleigh

Thank you Linda…we couldn’t agree more!

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June 15, 2010

Puppy Socialization Raleigh NC

Filed under: Miscellaneous — admin @ 9:59 am
Puppy Socialization Raleigh NC.  Puppy explores his world.

Puppy Socialization Raleigh NC. Puppy explores his world.

Puppy Socialization Raleigh, NC:  What puppy socialization is, how to do it, where to do it and why puppy’s need it!

When your puppy first comes home, his mind is a blank slate. He knows nothing about the world except what you show him. Puppies are not born understanding the world around them, what traffic is, what objects such as worms or leaves are, how to cope with people, cars, other pets or noises. These are things you must expose puppy to, ensuring that he has positive experiences with each exploration. All the sights and sounds we take for granted in our world are novel to a puppy…he’s never seen any of it! Introducing him to all of these things in his environment is no small task but it’s the most important thing you’ll ever do for your puppy.

Puppies need to be socialized between 4 and 16 weeks of age. A puppy’s brain is most accepting of new experiences between 4 and 12 weeks of age making this the critical period for socialization. In the following 4 weeks, the socialization window starts to close. If socialization doesn’t start until after this period, the puppy will be socially handicapped. After four months of age, when the socialization window closes, it’s much more difficult to influence a puppy’s opinion and attitude. Of course, the puppy can still learn, but it is infinitely harder because the puppy has to unlearn inappropriate responses such as fear or reactivity. For example, if a puppy is not exposed to crowds prior to four months of age, he may be so paralyzed with fear of the sights and sounds that crowds make, it may be impossible, or at best, uncomfortable for him to cope in this situation. If the puppy is exposed to crowds prior to four months of age and introduced in a positive way, he will accept crowds as “normal in his environment” and not be reactive or nervous about it. The key is to make sure your puppy gets exposed to everything he may ever be exposed to during his lifetime, while he is very young. Introducing puppy to new stimuli and experiences is critical to having a well-adjusted and behaviorally healthy adult dog.

Prevention is far better than rehabilitation! A properly socialized puppy is well adjusted and makes a good companion. It is neither frightened by nor aggressive towards anyone or anything he would normally meet in day-to-day living. An un-socialized dog is a liability. Typical behaviors of an unsocialized dog include fear and stress disorders, fear biting and fearful aggression. Unsocialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple walk around the neighborhood can panic your pet creating hiding behaviors, pulling on the leash to get away from the “scary thing” or offensive aggression (lunging on leash, biting or acting like Cujo to scare the frightening thing away). Don’t let this happen to your dog. Start socializing your new puppy NOW!

Vaccinations and exposure risks

Enrolling your puppy in a puppy socialization class is ideal and is typically safe. This is a wonderful opportunity to get your puppy out of the house on a regular basis and expose him to new situations and experiences.

People are sometimes warned not to take their puppies out in public until they are fully vaccinated for fear that the puppy might catch disease. But times have changed and veterinary behaviorists now recommend that you get puppy out and socialize him as soon as he’s completed his first round of shots. The risk of life-long behavioral consequences of not socializing a puppy prior to 16 weeks by far outweighs the small risk that puppy may catch something contagious. Behavioral problems are the number one reason dogs are euthanized in this country. And many of these problems would not have presented in the dog if he was properly socialized in puppyhood. Read the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior position statement relative to puppy vaccinations and socialization.

The chances of your puppy contracting a disease are rare but you do want to minimize risks. Only take your puppy into controlled environments until he is fully vaccinated. Facilities that hold puppy classes are usually sanitized and prepped specifically for puppies. Puppies are also typically separated from regular dog traffic. Dog parks, dog beaches and any other environment where dogs can run free should be avoided. Numerous diseases are transferred via infected urine and feces so avoid places where puppy can accidentally run through pet waste. Pet stores and boutiques are great places to socialize your puppy but carry him or put him in a cart, not on the floor, until he’s fully vaccinated.

Where puppy socialization begins

Puppy socialization should begin at home. When you first bring your pup home, visit your vet for a wellness check. If all is well, begin acclimating your pup to the sounds, sights and smells of his new environment - your home and yard. Be patient with puppy and remember that he’s never seen household items like mirrors, TV’s, a remote control, etc. His vision will still be blurry and his brain and hearing still developing. While you’re introducing puppy to all the items in your home and yard, plan a puppy party. Invite everyone you know to your home for a “meet my puppy” event. Invite the gang over to watch a sporting event so that puppy can see and hear people having fun and getting loud! After a few days, it’s time to introduce puppy to the world around him and all the wonders contained within it.

The car ride itself is a novel experience for puppies so don’t travel too far the first few times puppy gets in the car. Head into town, carrying your pup around. Bring lots of treats, and ask everyone you see if they want to meet your pup to offer him a treat. There are very few people in this world who can resist a puppy! You want your puppy to think that loud noises, funny smells and silly people roaming the streets are perfectly normal!

If there’s heavy traffic, give your puppy a treat as it passes. If a fire engine or ambulance goes by, treat and sound happy. Truck or bus backfires? Treat and act silly! This will get your puppy used to all the noises and potentially scary things that he will inevitably encounter. If you expose your puppy to street sounds and traffic in a positive way he’ll be comfortable walking down the street with you despite loud noises and other distractions.

Where to socialize your puppy including puppy socialization in Raleigh, NC

Dog friendly, open air shopping centers are ideal for puppy socialization. If you live in Raleigh, the Lake Boone Shopping Center is pet friendly. Stop into Unleashed, the Dog Store to introduce your puppy to dog-loving humans and friendly canines and have lunch at a sidewalk cafe next door. This environment allows your puppy to have new experiences while on leash. Quail Corners Shopping Center is also dog friendly. Relax in the patio section of It’s a Grind, coffee shop where treats are available for humans and canines alike.

Can’t find a shopping center near you? Most Starbucks and Panera locations have outdoor seating where you can sit with puppy while you enjoy coffee or a snack.

Dog bakeries also make a rewarding (and yummy) socialization outing! These specialty bakeries can be found in most cities. If you’re in the Raleigh area, Bone Appetit, Three Dog Bakery and Gourmutt’s can’t be beat for friendliness and scrumptious, homemade treats!

Your veterinarian’s office is also an important place to visit. Puppy’s early experiences there are surrounded by vaccinations (ouch!) so counter-balance this with positive experiences! Stop in a few times and let puppy hang out by the counter for a few minutes. Feed him lots of treats and let him get loved on by the staff and waiting clients. Now that’s a positive experience!

Banks can also be a great training ground for socializing a puppy. Many will let you carry your puppy in and may even offer him a biscuit. Your bank doesn’t welcome dogs? Take your puppy through the drive-thru so he can have that experience as well! Speaking of drive-thru’s, these can be especially traumatizing for a dog who’s never seen one before. Take your puppy through several drive-thru’s such as the bank, drug store or fast food restaurant.

People parks (not dog parks) are an excellent place for socialization. As long as dogs are allowed on leash, take puppy and let him see the walkers, joggers, bikers and wild life that abounds. Another benefit to parks is the exposure to multiple flooring surfaces. A typical park offers grass, concrete, gravel, wood and pine straw. Parks such as Shelley Lake in Raleigh offer all of this plus wood-plank bridges, a playground where puppy can meet some kids and of course, the lake. This is a socialization extravaganza!

Make play dates for your puppy where he can socialize one-on-one with a safe and friendly dog. Your puppy should meet and greet numerous dogs in his critical socialization period (30-50 is not unreasonable). Playing with the same dog repeatedly, won’t give puppy the social skills or confidence he needs.

Scary situations

Be careful not to give too much attention if your puppy acts fearful in a situation that is normal. If a bicycle races by and your puppy cowers you will be tempted to pet him and reassure him that “it’s ok, you’re alright, its ok”. If you do this, you are unknowingly praising puppy for his fear and rewarding the behavior. It’s best to be silent, not to acknowledge the reaction and move on. When the next bicycle (or other scary thing) comes near, offer a food reward to puppy so he redirects his thoughts from fear to treat.

It was big and scary and chasing me!

It was big and scary and chasing me!

From 16 weeks through at least one year of age, it is imperative that you make every effort to expand the puppy’s environment and expose him to new things. Puppies should be around as many different people and animals as possible. Take them with you when you go for a walk, shopping, or even to work. Encourage your children to bring their friends over to meet the new puppy. Take an obedience or training course where they will meet other dogs… all of this is important.

The list of things to socialize a puppy to include:

People and children of every size, shape and color, especially people wearing hats, sunglasses, beards and uniforms. Other animals but especially dogs, cats, squirrels and rabbits. Odd sounds and sudden, loud noises. You may want to pick up a Puppy Desensitization CD for this purpose.

Things that move and make sound are critically important and include: cars, bikes, skateboards, roller-skates, rollerblades, strollers, vacuum, motorcycles, garbage trucks, mail trucks and buses. City life including car traffic and crowds are essential!

Don’t forget to assess your family’s hobbies and entertainment preferences. If you’re golfers, introduce puppy to the golf bag, spiked shoes, golf hat, etc. If you’re boaters, introduce puppy to the boat several times before taking him out on the water. Baseball fans? Let puppy watch his family throw and hit balls. Even better, take puppy to a local children’s game and sit in the bleachers with him for 20 to 30 minutes. This is a great new experience for puppy. You can typically find a baseball, soccer or football game every weekend! Anyone up for basketball? Find a public court and sit with puppy (not too close). Let him watch the moving ball and all the frenzied action!

The bottom line is to involve your puppy as much as you can in your daily activities. He will become well-socialized and besides, that’s the reason you got him, right?

The goal of all dog training is to provide peaceable solutions to everyday problems and create behaviorally healthy puppies. Paws in Training provides dog training, puppy training, puppy socialization services to Raleigh and the Triangle, southern Wake County and northern Johnston County.

Ó Paws in Training, Inc. 2010

Comments (1)

May 23, 2010

New Dog Training and Resource Newsletter

Filed under: Miscellaneous — admin @ 8:49 am

Paws in Training is thrilled to announce that we’ve released our summer issue of “Tidbits & Resources For Dog Lovers”.  The summer edition contains the following articles:

Car Safety and Etiquette, (safety and manners for your canine when he’s in the car), Walking on the Wild Side (tips for walking your dog to make the walk fun and effective for canines and their humans too), Summer Hazards including heatstroke, chemicals and plants which are toxic to dogs.

The newsletter is free and is delivered to subscribers via email as a PDF file.  If you would like a complimentary copy, please send an email to editor@pawsintraining.com

Note:  We do not spam our customers!  If you sign up to receive the twice a year newsletter, you will not hear from us relative to any other matter!

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September 11, 2009

Housebreaking a Puppy

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: Housebreaking a puppy — admin @ 8:39 am

We like to refer to this as house training a puppy.  There are many methods available to train your puppy to go potty outside.  The one that’s right for you will match your enthusiasm and commitment level and your schedule.  All methods must be used consistently in order to help puppy understand that they should go potty outside the house…not in it.

How long should you expect puppy to “hold it”?

Depending on his age, your puppy’s bladder and bowels are still developing and he won’t be able to hold it very long.  A good formula is to take puppy’s age in weeks and divide by 3.  This gives you the maximum amount of time he can hold it.  For example, if your pup is 9 weeks old, divided by 3, gives you a maximum of 3 hours of holding power.

If you are crate training your puppy

Crates are excellent to teach house training but remember that crates are a tool… and should not be used for storage for your pet.  We recommend that puppy be brought out of the crate on regular intervals to interact with his family and receive the necessary visual and mental stimulation.  The moment puppy comes out of the crate, take him outside.  When he goes potty, praise the heck out of him and make a BIG fuss over his achievement.  Then it’s back inside to play.  Puppy should have another potty outing prior to going back in the crate.

How does crate training work?

Puppies typically won’t go potty where they sleep so the crate removes that temptation.  It also prevents puppy from going to the bathroom in the house so you prevent a habit from beginning. Both of these things help puppy understand that going potty outside is good and going inside is not good.

What if puppy is going to the bathroom in his crate?

If your puppy is going to the bathroom in his crate, verify if he’s in there too long.  Additionally, is the crate so big for him that he can potty on one side of it and sleep on the other?  If this is the case, crate dividers might be a good option. They are temporary and you can adjust and remove them as your puppy grows.   Your puppy needs room to stand up and turn around comfortably but if you have a 4 pound puppy in a crate large enough for a full grown Boxer, there’s plenty of room to sneak off for a quick tinkle!  The final question is, is the crate free of all traces of urine and feces?  Clean up is critical, using special enzymes to breakdown the scents.  Soap and water or vinegar is not enough.  If puppy can still smell any trace of a prior accident, it will attract him to go back there and do it again.

If space is not an issue and puppy is offered potty breaks at intervals appropriate for his age, we’d recommend a veterinary check up to rule out bladder problems such as a urinary tract infection or other medical reasons.

More tomorrow!

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September 7, 2009

Puppy Socialization Classes

Filed under: Miscellaneous — admin @ 8:40 am

The next round of puppy socialization classes are now forming!

The classes are for puppies aged 7-14 weeks and are designed to introduce puppy to new people, dogs, objects, and noises he will encounter for the rest of his life.  Special emphasis placed on socializing puppy to children and veterinary and grooming visits and introduction to moving objects (vacuum, bikes, skateboards, etc).

Pups will learn to view new things in their environment as fun and normal…not scary, creating social dogs as opposed to fearful dogs.  Parents will learn how to safely socialize their pup, to read their dog’s body language and how to manage typical puppy issues such as housebreaking, chewing, crying and jumping.

For detailed information, download class materials and enrollment forms Puppy Socialization Classes

Comments (4)

July 30, 2009

What’s appropriate dog play at dog parks?

Filed under: Miscellaneous — admin @ 9:33 am

Our dog trainers are often asked to speak or write about dog safety at dog parks.  Today’s entry addresses behavior we actually witnessed at a local dog park this morning and the owner’s contention that her dog was “just playing.”  This leads us into topic #1, what is appropriate play?  What does it look like?

What is Appropriate Dog Play at the Dog Park?

1. Mouthing occasionally (no teeth and no hold) is normal dog behavior. Biting or nipping at another dog’s neck, legs, or other body parts is not good behavior. If your dog bites at the flesh or collar of another dog and will not let go, if you or someone else has to pull that dog off of another, this is not appropriate play.   In fact, this isn’t “play” at all.  A dog exhibiting these behaviors should not be in a dog park until he is properly socialized and learns how to play appropriately.

2. Chasing other dogs is normal dog behavior but there are clear rules to this game which all dogs should instinctively understand. Dogs take turns chasing and being chased, this is the fun and the spirit of the game. The game is over when one dog stops running, lays down or hides himself. If a dog continuously pursues another dog, even when the other dog is hiding, or with his human for protection, this is not “play”.  Watch your dog when he is chasing another dog.  Does the other dog turn around and chase yours too?  If the answer is “yes”, that’s great dog play!  If your dog is only chasing other dogs and they are not chasing him back, pay closer attention.  Does your dog give up the chase or continue his pursuit?  Is he pursuing a dog that is lying down or hiding from him?  If the answer to either of these questions is “yes”, please remove your dog from the dog park.  The other dogs are telling him that they are fearful of him, do not want to play and are utilizing their “flight” option.  If the chaser doesn’t leave him alone, he may have no choice but to pursue his “fight option”  in order to protect himself from the chaser.

Even though we took training dogs to the park, (they are normally non-reactive), we removed them immediately after witnessing these behaviors repeatedly from one dog. If you are unsure if your dog is behaving offensively, a good indicator is if people are leaving with their dogs to get away from yours.  Watch to see if the dogs leaving are dogs which have been recently “played with” by your dog and if people are leaving in mass.  Three people made their exit shortly before or after we did, one of which was compelled to carry her dog out.

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Good Human Behavior at Dog Parks

Filed under: Miscellaneous — admin @ 9:29 am

Dog owners should always be watching their dogs while in a dog park.  Sure, a large part of the enjoyment is catching up with our human friends, but we must be mindful in watching our dog’s behavior and the behavior of other dogs.  Why?  Keeping dogs safe should be our number one concern while in a pack environment.

Good Human Behavior includes making sure that your dog is playing appropriately with other dogs and immediately removing them from the park if their behavior is not appropriate.

Today’s tip: How other humans tell you that your dog shouldn’t be in the dog park:

Very few people will ask another person to remove their dog from the dog park until there’s a fight or a bite.  This is understandable human behavior but it doesn’t help the dogs who are at risk and it doesn’t help the other human understand that their dog shouldn’t be in the dog park environment.  If people say things like, “Wow, he’s really fired up today! “  “Does he always play like that?” or  “He sure doesn’t take no for an answer does he?”  you may want to take a closer look at your dog’s behavior.

The clearest signal is this, are people leaving the park to escape your dog?  Pay close attention to this “human behavior”, especially if the dog that’s leaving was just being “played with” by your dog.  Humans find it a lot easier to avoid a problem than to address it head on and this is especially true at dog parks where no one wants to offend anyone else.  Not every dog is suited for an off-leash, pack environment.  This doesn’t make the dog bad, it just means that this environment is not a good fit for him.  It’s up to the human to make the right decision for their dog and the safety of other dogs at the park.

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